<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; LETTER-SPACING: 0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: ''; mso-hansi-font-family: ''; mso-bidi-font-size: 20.0pt">边城凤凰全攻略<SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: ''; LETTER-SPACING: 0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 20.0pt"> <SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">凤凰县位于湖南西部边缘,地处湘黔要衡,交通发达,风土人情十分特别;用在这里出生长大的沈从文老先生的话说,是一种个人浪漫情绪和宗教情绪结合为一的游侠精神,铸成了这地方人格与道德的另一种型范。当地居住的人多为土家族和苗族,不少地方是少数民族自治乡。
<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">凤凰可看的地方不少,人文和自然景观处处皆是;凤凰旧城主要是沿沱江边而建的吊脚楼群,但已经被改建得差不多了,在东门虹桥和北门跳岩附近还有些残留,细脚伶仃的立在沱江里,象一幅永不回来的风景,沈从文笔下的白脸汉子和窗户内的女人都已不再。
<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">东门有桥名“<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">虹”<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">,桥下是沱江拐弯的一个深潭,叫“<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">回龙潭”<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">,潭边除了吊脚楼,还有一座颇为精巧别致的“<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">夺翠楼”<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">,遥对着潭对面的万民塔和遐昌阁,据说这里的“<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">龙潭渔火”<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">和“<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">梵阁回涛”<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">是凤凰八景中的两景。
<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">北门码头附近有城楼,附近一座古老的石桥,是往来沱江两岸的重要通道,原先有旧桥墩立于江中,无桥面,往来行人需要从上跳跃而过,故名跳岩;如今过桥虽不用跳,但会面时需侧身让行是一定的,否则就有落水之虞。如今这里是妇人们洗衣和顽童嬉水的好地方。 <SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">旧城中有沈从文故居,颇不好找的一个小巷,有沈老生平事迹展览。
<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">万民塔,在东门虹桥下游沱江边,为现代改建(据说是画家黄永玉倡议),钢筋水泥结构,没多少看头,倒是塔边的几家旧宅深不可测,其中一户门口居然高悬“<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">边城诗社”<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">牌匾,门口梧桐树下临街撮麻的人家平添几番悠闲。
<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">黄丝桥古城:位于凤凰县城西三十公里左右,是清朝驻兵镇压苗疆叛乱的所在;四周由保护完好的城墙环绕,东西南北四向有城门角楼,城内居民不多,建筑比较有特色:全用青石板和泥灰作墙,屋顶仍是瓦木结构。这里曾经是影视片的外景地,适合拍山大王题材的剧种。
<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">山江苗寨:离凤凰县城23<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">公里(没有公路,全为山路),是个典型的苗乡,有苗歌台、苗王宫(黄茅坪)等去处,农历逢三、逢八的日子是苗家的集日,可以看到盛装的苗家姑娘,可惜,我们去的不是时间。
<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">奇梁洞:位于县城北奇梁乡,溶洞而已,可去可不去。
<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">推荐凤凰县委招待所迎宾楼。从凤凰汽车站往北约200<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">米折向东就到,单人间50<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">,双人间60<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">,需要开空调各加10<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">元,有独立卫生间和煤气热水器,抽水马桶比较别致:水龙头装在水箱内,如厕后需将手伸入水箱拧开水龙头冲水,亦可称“<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">冲水马桶”<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">。 <SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">凤凰县委招待所旧楼在迎宾楼后的山坡上,价格不祥,外观看起来比较古旧,但好处是可在阳台上看小城全景。
<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">小城吃的地方不多,晚间六点到八点间在从邮电局到东门的一条街上有夜市,多为湘黔辣味,麻辣烫等等不一而足。有一种炒烤小龙虾味道特别,价钱不菲,约大拇指头大小,一元上下才有交易。
<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">去凤凰县城最近的路是坐火车从吉首下车转中巴,5<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">元一位,有一个小时即可到达;如果从怀化下车,火车站门口也有中巴车到达凤凰,20<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">元一位,耗时约3<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">小时。需要提醒的是,从怀化去贵州铜仁的中巴车也经过凤凰,推荐坐这种车,以免湖南本地车因为区间营运问题把你转几手,最终还是坐上去贵州铜仁的车。
<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">从凤凰县城去黄丝桥古城可以坐出租车,桑塔那索价80<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">元,也可以坐去阿拉营的中巴(2<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">元一位)先到阿拉营,再转乘三轮“<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">摩的”<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">到黄丝桥(3<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">元);从黄丝桥返回亦然。
<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">从凤凰县城去山江苗寨和奇梁洞都有中巴车,价格都是3<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">元。
<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">离开凤凰同样可以选择从吉首或是怀化离开,去吉首的车从上午7<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">点到下午4<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">点,去怀化的最后一班车12<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">点半离开凤凰车站,如前所述,你最好在路边等从贵州铜仁开往怀化的过路车。假如你想继续前行往张家界风景区,建议去吉首,那里离张家界市(大庸)只有一站之遥。 <SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">总评 <SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">凤凰基本上是个以文章出名的地方,假如你很熟悉沈从文或者黄永玉对故乡的描述,你去了一定失望;但是如果你不了解沈从文或者黄永玉对故乡的描述,你根本不必去凤凰。
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