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和好玩的人一起在路上...
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本帖最后由 黑尾狗 于 2009-5-22 10:13 编辑
杀马亲笔:
The last two weeks in Yangshuo have been the last leg of promotional tour for Evolv through Japan, Korea and China. Although we heard it might not be the best season to climb here, we decided to come and check it out anyways and see if we could get lucky. From the photos I'd seen it seemed as if there was a ton of potential for new hard routes, so I was really looking forward to finding some sweet new lines. Beforehand I got in touch with some of the locals and made plans to have a drill, bolts and hangers waiting upon arrival.
Since moving to Spain two years ago I've totally fell in love with the whole first ascent process. Although its so much work, its really rewarding taking an active role in creating something amazing. The rock has always been there but by bringing our vision to it, it comes alive. I'm way more motivated to send a route that I've bolted , cleaned and figured out the moves on.
So since we arrived I've been on the lookout for new lines. On a three week trip there's only so much you can do. Long term projects are kinda out of the question, especially in 80% humidity. More than sending my hardest route, my goal has been to bolt a few five star projects and leave some badass lines for the locals and for when I can make it back with more time.
-CS
转自:http://www.momentumvm.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&task=blogcategory&id=16&Itemid=50
上两个星期,Evolv赞助攀岩队到了阳朔。阳朔是这次攀岩旅行的最后一站,一共旅行了三个国家:日本,韩国和中国。虽然我听说在这里,此时并不是最好的攀岩季节,但是我还是决定要来一趟,碰碰运气。在照片中,看到仿佛有无数条有潜力的高难度处女线路,所以我真的很期待能找到一些美妙的新线路。在来之前,我和当地攀岩者取得联系,并做好开线装备的采购计划,然后就等待着踏上阳朔的土地。
自从两年前,我移居西班牙后,整个人就完全沉迷于开线和首攀过程。虽然这需要付出大量的前期工作,但是值得去积极地创造出伟大的线路。岩壁其实一直在那里,只要往上面倾注我们的思想和理解,这个岩壁就会变的栩栩如生。打保护点,清理岩壁,标注线路,这些开线的工作都是我热衷去做的事情。
当我们赶到阳朔,我就投入到寻找全新线路的工作中。三个星期的旅程,对任何人来说,都有很多事情去做。但长期开线工程是不可能完成的,特别在湿度80%的气候环境下。我的目标是开发一些的5星级的线路,而非最难的线路,给当地攀岩者带来几条高难度的新线,也让我以后再来阳朔时去完成。
—克里斯*杀马 |
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少年杀马 15岁 14c
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阳朔,从上而下 近景特写
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