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发表于 2009-5-18 07:49:26 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式

和好玩的人一起在路上...

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去年12月,亚历山大和托马斯胡贝尔,更好地了解作为,胡贝尔兄弟连同史蒂芬西格里斯特管理的兴起Ulvetanna第一登顶西部工作面Holtanna 。
Technical difficulties, extreme cold and tremendous dimensions make these fascinating mountains one of the toughest and most beautiful challenges on earth.
技术上的困难,极端寒冷和巨大的规模使这些迷人的山区最困难和最美丽的地球上的挑战。
Six weeks in the perpetual ice.
六个星期的永久冰。
Temperatures as low as -50°Celsius, heavy storms, surprisingly instable weather, no sunset.
温度低至-50 °摄氏度,重型风暴,令人惊讶的不稳定天气,没有日落。
Sheltered by nothing but clothing, sleeping bag and a tent.
庇护只是服装,睡袋和帐篷。
For many this goes already beyond all imagination.
对许多人来说这种做法已经超越所有的想象力。
Climbing a 750-meter high vertical granite wall under such circumstances, preferably in a free manner, is a setting that gives Thomas and Alexander Huber the necessary motivation to passionately approach a new adventure.
攀登750米高的花岗岩壁垂直在这种情况下,最好是在一个自由的方式,是一个设定,让托马斯和亚历山大贝尔必要的动力,充满激情的方式新的冒险。
In November and December 2008, the two mountaineers and extreme climbers from Berchtesgaden, Germany, travelled together with fellow Swiss mountaineer Stephan Siegrist to Queen Maud Land amidst the Antarctica.
在11月和2008年12月,这两个登山者和极端登山从贝希特斯加登,德国,连同研究员前往瑞士登山史蒂芬西格里斯特以慕德土地烟雨南极洲。
German cameraman Max Reichel (“To the Limit”) accompanied the alpinists to document the extreme and ice-cold expedition firsthand.
德国摄影记者马克斯赖歇尔( “到了极限” )陪同登山文件的极端和冰冷的第一手考察。
Like nowhere else in the Antarctica, amazing rock formations stick out of the Antarctic ice shield in Queen Maud Land.
像在其他地方在南极洲,令人惊讶的岩层伸出的南极冰盾慕德土地。
These towers are only the tops of a mountain range of which the highest summits have pierced the kilometre thick continental ice sheet to form unique and spectacular granite mountains that tower like missiles amidst the seemingly endless, white glacier desert.
这些塔只是上衣的山脉,其中最高的首脑会议已经刺穿公里厚的大陆冰盖,形成独特而壮观的花岗岩山的塔像导弹烟雨似乎没完没了,白色冰川沙漠。
The highest and most impressive mountains in Queen Maud Land are the 2931-meter high Ulvetanna, one of the most difficult mountains in the world, and the slightly lower Holtanna (2650 m) with its West Face, one of the steepest and most difficult faces of the Antarctica.
最高和最令人印象深刻的山区慕德土地是2931米高的Ulvetanna ,一个最困难的山区中的世界,略低于Holtanna (二千六百五十○米)及其西脸,其中一个最大和最困难的面孔南极洲。
Apart from the impressive Ulvetanna („wolf tooth“), the three Alpinists were mainly attracted by the challenge of a first ascent of the West Face of Holtanna („hollow tooth“).
除了令人印象深刻的Ulvetanna ( “狼齿” ) ,这三个登山所吸引的主要挑战的第一个登顶的西方面孔Holtanna ( “空心牙” ) 。
„It's an extreme Big Wall, 750 metres high, altogether more than just vertical, in the iciness of the Antarctica“, Alexander Huber describes the challenge.
“这是一种极端的大墙, 750米高,共不仅仅是纵向的,在寒冷的南极” ,亚历山大贝尔介绍了挑战。
No less than six weeks was the time frame the Huber Brothers set themselves for their trip into the unknown.
不少于6个星期的时间范围内的胡贝尔兄弟将自己的行程探索未知。
Despite in-depth research and talks with members of former Antarctica expeditions, no one knew if free climbing in these cold temperatures would actually be manageable.
尽管深入的研究和谈判的成员前南极洲探险,没有人知道,如果在这些自由攀登低温实际上可以控制。
The Huber Brothers ascended the 750-metre high West Face, but had to put their free climbing ambitions on hold due to the glacial temperatures.
的胡贝尔兄弟登上750米高的西脸,但把他们的自由攀登野心搁置由于冰川的温度。
„It was very, very cold”, Thomas Huber says, “but despite these extreme conditions our first ascent of the West Face was a gem: “Eiszeit” (“Ice Age”), 24 pitches, difficulty up to 5.10+ and technically up to A4”.
“这是非常,非常冷” ,托马斯胡贝尔说, “但尽管有这些极端条件下我们第一次登上西方脸的瑰宝: ” Eiszeit “ ( ”冰河世纪“ ) , 24球,难度高达5月10日+和技术上高达A4规定“ 。
Only one week later, however, the extreme climbers were able to claim the first free ascent of Holtanna via its North Buttress.
仅一个星期后,但是,极端的登山能够索赔的第一次自由上浮的Holtanna通过其北支墩。
“Even though the difficulties were fairly moderate, the beauty of the route „Skywalk“, 7-, cannot be outmatched”, raves Thomas Huber.
“尽管困难是相当温和,美丽的路线”天桥“ , 7 - ,不能outmatched ” ,很受观众喜爱托马斯胡贝尔。
The three alpinists had their sights on yet another great goal.
这三个登山的目光投向了另一个伟大的目标。
“Towards the end of our Antarctica expedition we were once again lucky with the weather”, the Huber Brothers recount.
“快结束时,我们的南极探险队,我们再次幸运的天气” ,在胡贝尔兄弟重新计票。
“So within two days we ascended the Ultanna via its Northwest Buttress.
“所以,我们在两天内登上Ultanna通过其西北支墩。
The first ascent of “Sound of Silence” 5.11-/A2 was the cherry on the cake of what we think is our most beautiful expedition to date.
第一个登顶的“寂静之声” 5.11-/A2是蛋糕上的樱桃是我们认为是我们最美丽的远征日期。
Judged from the outside we might have not been able to realize our goal - a difficult free climb amidst the Antarctica - one hundred per cent, but with an air temperature of -20°Celsius a seven becomes a nine and a nine becomes virtually impossible.
从外部看,我们可能无法实现我们的目标-一个困难的自由攀登烟雨南极洲-百分之一百,但空气温度-20 °摄氏七成为九个九成为几乎是不可能的。
And most of the time it was even colder than that!
和大多数时间甚至更冷比!
We have tried everything, we have managed everything and we are very happy!”
我们必须千方百计,我们已设法一切,我们非常高兴! “


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 楼主| 发表于 2009-5-18 07:49:39 | 显示全部楼层
本帖最后由 Mage 于 2009-5-18 07:53 编辑

胡贝尔兄弟,应该才是世界上最好的climber。
sharma,极限攀登水平,可能是最高的。
胡贝尔兄弟,应该是最全部的,无处不爬。大岩壁专家。
就像在欧洲地区,年轻人都在进行运动攀登,年长者则都是进行传统攀登。
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MonKing~

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发表于 2009-5-18 09:00:21 | 显示全部楼层
本帖最后由 黑尾狗 于 2009-5-18 09:19 编辑

了解哈子,  

还是运动攀,安全。
不像老外,在中国,普通中国老百姓搞极限户外 是死不起滴·
等中国福利保障制度更健全,老百姓更加富裕,再去玩命吧··
岩者,聚石成山也~
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发表于 2009-5-18 19:14:54 | 显示全部楼层
敬礼
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发表于 2009-5-19 01:31:44 | 显示全部楼层
晚上刚看了DISCOVERY,两个登山者遇到大大大雪崩死里逃生,是不是大岩壁爬不上去用锤子钉岩塞呀,新片北壁里面就是用的这个方法爬的结组
石猴攀岩
hiclimber.cn
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